On New Zealand's wild West Coast, two glaciers descend from the Southern Alps almost to sea level, terminating in lush temperate rainforest - a combination found nowhere else in the world at this latitude. Franz Josef Glacier (Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere) and Fox Glacier (Te Moeka o Tuawe) are the jewels of Westland Tai Poutini National Park, offering the chance to walk on ancient ice, fly over crevassed glacier surfaces by helicopter, and soak in natural hot pools beneath snow-capped peaks. The small towns of Franz Josef and Fox Glacier serve as bases, with the relaxed, slightly frontier character typical of the West Coast - where the rainforest is dense, the rainfall prodigious, and the welcome warm.
Getting There
Franz Josef is 460km (5.5 hours) from Christchurch via Arthur's Pass, or 350km (4.5 hours) from Queenstown via Haast Pass. InterCity buses run daily. The nearest airport is Hokitika (1.5 hours north) with flights from Christchurch. A car is the best way to explore the West Coast - the drives are spectacular.
Glacier Experiences
Due to glacial retreat, walking onto the glaciers directly from the valley floor is no longer possible. The best experiences are helicopter-based:
- Heli-hike: The signature experience - fly by helicopter to the upper glacier, strap on crampons, and walk on the ice with a guide for 2–3 hours. You explore ice caves, crevasses, and blue ice formations in an otherworldly landscape (from $479 Franz Josef, $439 Fox).
- Scenic helicopter flight: A shorter option - fly over both glaciers and the surrounding peaks, with a snow landing on the névé (upper snowfield). Incredible views of the ice, mountains, and Tasman Sea (from $290).
- Valley walks: Free DOC walks lead to viewpoints of both glaciers from the valley floor. The Franz Josef Glacier Valley Walk (1.5 hours return) and Fox Glacier Valley Walk (1 hour return) offer views of the ice face and the glacial river. You can appreciate the scale without flying.
- Weather: Glacier flights are weather-dependent - cloud, rain, and wind can cause cancellations. Book for your first day and leave a buffer day if possible. The West Coast receives 5,000mm+ of rain per year.
Hot Pools & Rainforest
- Franz Josef Glacier Hot Pools: Three public hot pools set among native rainforest - soak in naturally heated mineral water after a day of glacier walking. Beautiful at dusk with the forest canopy above ($29).
- West Coast Wildlife Centre: Conservation centre focused on the rare rowi kiwi (fewer than 500 survive). Behind-the-scenes tours let you see kiwi chick incubation and juvenile rearing ($39).
- Lake Matheson: 30 minutes south at Fox Glacier - "Mirror Lake" is famous for its reflections of Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman on still mornings. A 1.5-hour loop walk around the lake is free and beautiful (best reflections at dawn).
West Coast Rainforest
The Westland rainforest is extraordinary - dense, dripping, and ancient:
- Tatare Tunnels Walk: A unique 45-minute walk through glow-worm tunnels in the rainforest near Franz Josef (free, bring a torch).
- Alex Knob Track: A challenging 8-hour return hike through rainforest to a viewpoint above Franz Josef Glacier. Rewarding on clear days.
- Ōkārito Lagoon: New Zealand's largest unmodified wetland - kayaking on the lagoon at dawn to spot white herons (kōtuku) and other birdlife is magical (from $95).
- Ōkārito Kiwi Tours: Guided night walks to see rowi kiwi in their native habitat - one of the few places to see kiwi in the wild ($85).
Where to Eat
- Alice May (Franz Josef): The town's best restaurant - NZ comfort food, local ingredients, great wine list. - The Landing Bar (Franz Josef): Relaxed pub food, craft beer, fire pit. - Matheson Café (Fox Glacier): Beside Lake Matheson - excellent coffee and cabinet food with mountain views. - King Tiger (Franz Josef): Asian fusion, good for a change of pace.
Where to Stay
- Te Waonui Forest Retreat (luxury, Franz Josef, surrounded by rainforest - from $400/night) - Scenic Hotel Franz Josef Glacier (comfortable, central - from $180/night) - Rainforest Retreat (eco cabins, glamping, and camping in the bush - from $45/cabin) - YHA Franz Josef (excellent backpacker - from $35/dorm)
Practical Tips
- Book heli-hikes as early as possible - they fill up fast and weather cancellations mean rebooking. - West Coast weather is highly variable - pack waterproof gear and be prepared for rain. - Sandflies are fierce on the West Coast - insect repellent is essential. - Franz Josef is a small town - restaurants are limited, so book dinner in peak season. - The drive between Franz Josef and Fox Glacier is just 25 minutes - you can easily visit both.
AUBIS Tip
: The glaciers are a South Island highlight. Use AUBIS to book your heli-hike (the platform will factor in weather contingency), Franz Josef Hot Pools, and Lake Matheson walk, then plan your onward route via Haast Pass to Wanaka and Queenstown.