Lord Howe Island is one of the most extraordinary places in Australia, and one of the most exclusive. This tiny crescent-shaped volcanic island, 600 kilometres off the NSW coast, is World Heritage-listed and strictly limits visitors to 400 at any time, preserving an environment of remarkable beauty and biodiversity. There are no mobile phone towers, no chain restaurants, and only a handful of accommodation options. It's Australia's most pristine and untouched holiday destination.
Getting There
Lord Howe Island is a 2-hour flight from Sydney or a 1.5-hour flight from Brisbane, operated by QantasLink. Flights land on a grass runway between the lagoon and the mountains - the approach is spectacular. There are no ferries. Book flights well in advance as they fill quickly, especially in summer and school holidays.
The Lagoon
Lord Howe's western lagoon is one of the most beautiful natural swimming pools on Earth. Protected by the world's southernmost coral reef, the turquoise lagoon has calm, crystal-clear water perfect for swimming, snorkelling, and stand-up paddleboarding. The coral reef supports over 500 species of fish and 90 species of coral - remarkable for a location this far south. Snorkelling straight off the beach at Ned's Beach is incredible, and the fish are so friendly they eat from your hands.
Mount Gower
The Mount Gower hike is widely regarded as one of the best day walks in Australia. This challenging 14-kilometre return trek climbs to the summit of the 875-metre peak at the island's southern end. A licensed guide is required (and highly recommended), and the hike takes about 8-10 hours. The reward at the top is a cloud forest draped in moss and ferns, with views across the island and out to Balls Pyramid, the world's tallest sea stack. This is a bucket-list hike.
Balls Pyramid
Balls Pyramid is a dramatic volcanic rock spire rising 562 metres out of the Tasman Sea, 23 kilometres southeast of Lord Howe. It's the tallest volcanic sea stack in the world and is home to the Lord Howe Island Stick Insect, thought extinct until rediscovered here in 2001. You can see it from Mount Gower or take a boat trip around its base (conditions permitting).
Snorkelling & Diving
Lord Howe has some of the best snorkelling and diving in the world:
- Ned's Beach: Walk in from the beach and you're surrounded by fish. Incredible for beginners and children.
- Erscotts Hole: A stunning coral garden just off the shore.
- The Admiralty Islands: Boat access only. Pristine coral and abundant marine life.
- Balls Pyramid: For advanced divers, the underwater walls around Balls Pyramid are extraordinary, with encounters including Galapagos sharks and enormous schools of fish.
- The Comets Hole: A deep hole near the lagoon's edge teeming with life.
Cycling
There are no taxis on Lord Howe Island. Everyone gets around by bicycle, and most lodges provide them free of charge. The island is small (just 11 kilometres long and 2.8 kilometres at its widest) and mostly flat in the settled area. Cycling is part of the Lord Howe experience - there's something wonderful about riding a bicycle with no traffic, no rush, and the mountains ahead of you.
Birdwatching
Lord Howe is a birdwatcher's paradise. The island is home to 14 species of seabirds and several endemic land birds:
- Lord Howe Woodhen: Once critically endangered (down to about 15 birds in the 1980s), this flightless rail has been brought back from the brink and now numbers around 300. They're wonderfully tame and waddle around the island.
- Providence Petrel: These large seabirds nest on Mount Gower and will literally land on your outstretched arm on the summit.
- Masked Booby, Red-tailed Tropicbird: Large seabird colonies around the island.
- Mutton Birds (Flesh-footed Shearwaters): Nest in burrows across the island from September to April.
Ned's Beach Fish Feeding
Every evening at Ned's Beach, visitors wade into the shallow water and hand-feed schools of kingfish, mullet, and wrasse that come right to the shore. It's a magical experience - enormous fish swimming around your legs in crystal-clear water. Fish food is available from a dispenser on the beach.
Where to Eat
- Arajilla Retreat Restaurant: The island's best dining, set in a beautiful tropical garden. Modern Australian with a focus on local seafood. Dinner from $80.
- Pinetrees Lodge: The oldest lodge on the island offers dinner to guests and non-guests (booking required). Multi-course set menu.
- The Anchorage Restaurant: Casual dining with excellent local fish. Mains $28-40.
- Coral Cafe: The best coffee on the island and good casual food for lunch.
Where to Stay
- Budget: The Trader (basic but well-located self-catering units), Somerset (self-catering apartments).
- Mid-Range: Pinetrees Lodge (a Lord Howe institution since 1842, with all meals included), Leanda Lei (garden setting near Ned's Beach).
- Luxury: Capella Lodge (Australia's most exclusive lodge, perched on the hillside with views of Mount Gower, infinity pool, and included gourmet dining), Arajilla Retreat (boutique luxury in tropical gardens).
Practical Tips
- Booking: Lord Howe's 400-visitor cap means you must book accommodation well in advance, especially for school holidays and the summer season (December-March). Many lodges book out 6-12 months ahead. - No Mobile Service: There is no mobile phone reception on Lord Howe Island. Wi-Fi is available at most lodges but it's slow. Embrace the disconnect - it's part of the experience. - Weather: Subtropical with warm summers (23-27°C) and mild winters (16-19°C). The water is warmest from January to May. Rainfall is relatively consistent year-round. Summer is peak season; winter is quieter and cooler but still beautiful. - Baggage: Flights to Lord Howe have strict baggage limits (typically 14kg checked, 7kg carry-on). Pack light. - Rat Eradication: In 2019, a major rat eradication program was completed on Lord Howe Island. The results have been extraordinary - endemic plants and animals have bounced back dramatically, and the island is even more pristine than before.
AUBIS Tip
: Lord Howe Island is a once-in-a-lifetime trip. Use AUBIS to plan your stay, adding the Mount Gower hike, snorkelling at Ned's Beach, a cycling day around the island, and dinner at Capella Lodge to your itinerary. Book well in advance and embrace the island's offline lifestyle.