The Bay of Islands is New Zealand's subtropical paradise - 144 islands scattered across a turquoise bay in Northland, the country's warm, laid-back far north. This is where New Zealand began: the Treaty of Waitangi was signed here in 1840, establishing the relationship between the British Crown and Māori chiefs that remains the founding document of the nation. Today, the Bay of Islands is all about the water - sailing, dolphin encounters, diving, kayaking, and big-game fishing in some of the clearest, warmest ocean in New Zealand. The main towns of Paihia and Russell (once known as the "Hellhole of the Pacific" for its wild whaling-era reputation) are charming bases for exploration.
Getting There
The Bay of Islands is 230km (3 hours) north of Auckland via SH1. InterCity buses run daily from Auckland to Paihia ($35–50). There's a small regional airport at Kerikeri (KKE) with Air New Zealand flights from Auckland (35 minutes). Paihia is the main tourist hub; Russell is a short ferry ride across the bay ($14 return).
Top Experiences
- Hole in the Rock Cruise: The signature Bay of Islands experience - a full-day cruise through the islands to Cape Brett and the dramatic Hole in the Rock (Motukokako), a natural rock arch the boat passes through when conditions allow. Keep watch for dolphins, whales, and penguins en route. From $130 (half-day) or $145 (full-day with island stop).
- Swim with dolphins: Wild bottlenose and common dolphins are resident in the bay. Several operators offer swim-with-dolphin cruises where you enter the water with the pod - a magical, respectful wildlife encounter. From $170.
- Sailing: The Bay of Islands is one of the world's great sailing destinations. Join a day sail on a racing yacht, a tall ship, or a luxury catamaran. The R. Tucker Thompson tall ship offers day sails ($145) and overnight voyages.
Waitangi Treaty Grounds
The Waitangi Treaty Grounds is the most important historic site in New Zealand:
- Treaty House: The elegant colonial house where the Treaty was first signed on 6 February 1840. Beautifully restored with excellent interpretive displays.
- Te Whare Rūnanga: A magnificently carved Māori meeting house representing all iwi (tribes) of New Zealand. The interior carving and tukutuku (woven panels) are breathtaking.
- Waka: A 35-metre ceremonial war canoe (waka taua) is launched on Waitangi Day (6 February) each year - an impressive sight.
- Cultural performance: Daily cultural performances including haka, poi, and traditional songs are held in the meeting house grounds (included with $50 entry).
Russell & Beyond
- Russell: New Zealand's first European settlement, once notorious as a whaling port, now a charming heritage village with the oldest surviving church in the country (Christ Church, 1836, with musket ball holes from the Flagstaff War), Duke of Marlborough Hotel (NZ's oldest licensed pub), and excellent seafood restaurants.
- Kerikeri: A 20-minute drive inland - the Stone Store (1836, NZ's oldest stone building) and Mission House (oldest surviving wooden building) sit beside the Kerikeri Basin. The surrounding area is famous for citrus orchards and artisan food producers.
- Haruru Falls: A horseshoe-shaped waterfall near Paihia, accessible by an easy walking or kayaking track from the Waitangi River.
- Cape Reinga day trip: The Bay of Islands is a base for day trips to Cape Reinga (Te Rerenga Wairua), the spiritual tip of New Zealand where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean and Māori spirits depart for the afterlife. Tours include 90 Mile Beach ($130).
Where to Eat
- Charlotte's Kitchen (Paihia): Excellent NZ cuisine, waterfront setting, great wine list. - The Duke of Marlborough (Russell): Historic pub dining, fresh local seafood. - Sage Restaurant (Kerikeri): Fine dining with local produce, garden setting. - The Gables (Russell): Beautifully restored 1847 building, elegant seafood.
Where to Stay
- Eagles Nest (luxury villas, Russell - from $900/night - one of NZ's finest) - Paihia Beach Resort & Spa (waterfront, central Paihia - from $220/night) - Russell TOP 10 (holiday park with cabins and camping - from $45/cabin) - Haka Lodge Paihia (modern backpacker - from $35/dorm)
Practical Tips
- The Bay of Islands is warmest December–March (23–26°C) but pleasant year-round. - Book dolphin swims and Hole in the Rock cruises at least a day ahead in peak season. - Russell has no ATMs and limited EFTPOS - carry cash or pay at Paihia. - The water is clear and warm enough for swimming from November to April.
AUBIS Tip
: The Bay of Islands is the perfect start to a Northland road trip. Use AUBIS to book your Hole in the Rock cruise, dolphin swim, and Waitangi visit as a package, then extend north to Cape Reinga and the Kauri Coast.